On the mend

It is Friday (we believe) and both of us are feeling a lot better after a day lost to illness.  Julie was quiet sick, Denise just a little bit, but enough to keep us away from the orphanage for the day.  It was frustrating since we have so little time there and don't want to miss any of it, but there is nothing you can do but rest.  Several of our volunteer mates are sick, mostly mildly, but one with probably Malaria and she is heading home.  As a longtime volunteer said:  Ghana hates white people's bodies!  That part is true--the food, sun, environment, plus the bugs, dirt, and for us, a horde of fairly sick orphans makes it tough to stay strong.  But we have a new burst of confidence about our condition and went back to see the kids this morning.  Enough about us.

The orphanage is an amazing place.  There are almost 60 children ages 2-18 and they are cared for by two "mas" and the older kids who help out.  They have absolutely nothing.  The orphanage is two shoddy buildings (no electricity or running water).  The kids have some bunk beds but many sleep on the floor or on filthy pieces of cardboard or foam.  Last night I was lying on the mat reading to a little one and looked up and saw horrible graffiti on the ceiling.  Its because they used old plywood to make a roof, without regard for the condition.  The children are fed from a large black iron kettle which cooks over an open flame.  There is no kitchen, no fridge, no oven, no cooktop.  There is no running water and the toilet is a gully behind the building. Each child has a school uniform and one other set of clothing.  Often the clothes are hand-me-downs and torn or the wrong size.  Two days ago one of the volunteers went to the market and bought 60 pairs of socks.  The next day the kids were dressed wearing their new socks with their rag a muffin clothes.  It just breaks your heart to see the contrast between what they do not have, and what they need.  Also, how little things can make a difference.  Here is a good example.  The children have virtually no protein in their diet.  Morning breakfast is "porridge"--rice water heated with some corn meal in it.  Three scoops per child.  Lunch is the same.  Dinner may be rice, or beans.  Virtually no fruit, vegetable, or protein.  Yesterday Emily, a volunteer purchased eggs at the market and boiled 60 so each child could have one.  They lined up to get their boiled egg as if they were receiving a lump of gold.  It is amazing what small things can do.

On the other hand, (maybe the stronger hand) even though the children have very little, they have some of the most open hearts I have seen.  They are so friendly, and run to greet you when you arrive in the morning or pick them up at school.  They love any attention you show them, and are affectionate and smiling.  And although they have their scuffles (especially the boys), they look after each other in a way that is very touching.  One little baby, Beauty, is a favorite and you will often see the older kids carrying her around, or "combing"  (none of the kids have much hair) her hair.  The oldest girls and boys are some of the kindest teenagers you could hope to meet, and the way their accept their responsibilities at the orphanage is impressive. 

This time has already given us so many things to think about in terms of what you need in life, and what you can easily do for others.  It is a challenge to come into a different culture and be a help while respecting the Ghanaian way of life, which is quite different from our own.  But now that we have been here there will be ways we can help on return, and have already started to dream about that.

Hope to post again soon, we have found the local internet cafe which operates on Ghanaian time--the internet is slow as molasses, but why worry?

More later, Denise & Julie